![]() ![]() Clip a locking carabiner into the belay anchor point.Tie the end of the rope onto your harness’s belay loop with a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot.Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E.g. This is the recommended method by many climbing schools today. The belayer is not attached directly to the belay device. In the direct belay method, the belay device is secured directly on the belay anchor. Method #1: Belaying From Above Using A Direct Belay ![]() They may vary from brand to brand, model to model. You should check the manufacturer’s specifications on the proper use of the belay device. Important: The guides below are for general information only. You can see this only on aperture-style self-braking belay devices. Release hole: This is an opening to insert a carabiner for lowering a climber. You can see this on tubular aperture belay devices and aperture-style self-braking belay devices.Īttachment point: This is an opening for attaching the belay device to the anchor point for a direct belay. Rope slots: These are the openings in the belay device to pass the ropes through.Ĭable: This is a loop of metal cable connected to the frame. The high-friction side has grooves to increase friction for braking. An aperture-style self-braking belay device has a regular side and a high-friction side. More costly than the other belay devices.įrame: This is the main body of the belay device. – The belay device has a release mechanism for the rope and you can lower the climber easily and smoothly. Since the belay device auto-locks in one direction, it can be difficult to lower the climber. – If the belayer loses consciousness in an accident, the belay device can still brake a fall. – Lowering the climber relies fully on the strength of the belayer. – If the belayer loses consciousness in an accident, the belay fails. This relies completely on the belayer’s brake hand. ![]() Here’s a quick comparison of the pros and cons of using each of these belay devices: You can do a redirected or indirect belay with an aperture belay device or a self-braking belay device. You can do a direct belay with a self-braking belay device but not an aperture belay device. Self-braking belay devices have an internal mechanism that will stop on the ropes during a fall. ATC Guide (this is different from the ATC) and ReversoĪperture belay devices simply provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. There are a few different types of belay devices: Part 2: How To Pass A Belay Certification Test This is Part 5 of 5 of the Learn To Belay Mini-series : These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done.īut before learning about each method, let’s first talk about belay devices.
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